E3Goodman, Amana, Daikin · GMVM96 · Furnace

Goodman, Amana, Daikin GMVM96 error code E3

Open high limit switch

Goodman is the platform name, and your unit may not say it

Amana AMVM96 / ACVM96, Daikin GMVM96 platform are the same board with a different badge, so this page covers all of them. The fault, the checks and the parts are identical, which is why there is one page rather than one per brand.

Needs attention soon

Quick answer

On Goodman GMVM96 (2010s), E3 is a fault. It means open high limit switch. A first thing to check: Dirty or undersized furnace filter.

Applies to: Goodman GMVM96; Goodman and Amana GMVM96, GMVM97, GCVM96 alphanumeric codes · Furnace · 2010s
Type of code: Fault; Urgency: Needs attention soon
First safe check: Replace the filter. Not the cheap one, and not a slice of cardboard. A 1 inch filter on a system rated for 4 inches media will trip this switch repeatedly.

Checked 2026-09-26

What E3 means on this model

The high limit switch opened on this platform, which means the control measured airflow low enough that it decided the burners were too dangerous to run. The letter code tells you the same thing four flashes used to tell the older boards, with the added benefit that a low airflow fault on this control is usually reported before the limit switch has to act at all.

Symptoms you will notice

Furnace runs, then stops after a few minutes
Warm air briefly, then nothing
Airflow is weak or the rooms stay cold
Code returns after the unit cools down and cools off again

Common causes

The code tells you what the control detected, not which part failed. These are the causes we see most often, roughly in order of likelihood:

Dirty or undersized furnace filter
Closed or missing registers, or registers blocked by furniture
Return air grille blocked or undersized for the system
Blower wheel packed with dust and no longer moving the designed air volume
Furnace installed in a closet or tight space with poor combustion air
Duct restriction, disconnected duct, or a collapsed flex run
Failing blower motor running slow under load

What you can safely check

These are homeowner-level checks. None of them need you to open a live electrical compartment or work on gas.

Replace the filter. Not the cheap one, and not a slice of cardboard. A 1 inch filter on a system rated for 4 inches media will trip this switch repeatedly.
Walk every supply register and confirm air is actually moving out of each one.
Look at the return grille in the main hallway or living room. It is often behind a sofa.
Turn the system on and hold your hand at the supply registers. Weak or uneven air points at the blower or the ducts.

Do not do these

×Do not bypass the high limit switch. It is the last thing standing between a failed blower motor and a burned heat exchanger.
×Do not leave the filter slot open or install a filter rated for a thinner media than the cabinet calls for.

When to call a technician

Book a technician, do not keep resetting it

This fault will not clear on its own. Every power cycle gives the control one more failed attempt, and repeated attempts are what turn a cheap part replacement into a seized or contaminated system.

This is a fuel-burning appliance, so treat anything involving a burner, gas valve or flue as technician work. If you smell gas at any point, leave the property and call the gas utility from outside rather than continuing to diagnose.
If the appliance has stopped mid-cycle, is making a noise you have not heard before, or smells burnt, stop reading here and call. Those are symptoms of something the fault code does not describe well enough.

Filters, registers and grille access are all homeowner work. A blower motor is technician work on a sealed combustion unit.

What it costs to fix

Parts

1 inch pleated filter $8 to $20. 4 inch media filter $20 to $40. Blower motor $250 to $500. Capacitor $15 to $40.

Labor

Filter and register work is often free if you do it. Blower motor replacement is two to four hours because of the burners and gas train in the way.

DIY or technician