E1Goodman, Amana, Daikin · GMVM96 · Furnace

Goodman, Amana, Daikin GMVM96 error code E1

Low stage pressure switch stuck closed at start of heat

Goodman is the platform name, and your unit may not say it

Amana AMVM96 / ACVM96, Daikin GMVM96 platform are the same board with a different badge, so this page covers all of them. The fault, the checks and the parts are identical, which is why there is one page rather than one per brand.

Needs attention soon

Quick answer

On Goodman GMVM96 (2010s), E1 is a fault. It means low stage pressure switch stuck closed at start of heat. A first thing to check: Pressure switch stuck in the closed position.

Applies to: Goodman GMVM96; Goodman and Amana GMVM96, GMVM97, GCVM96 alphanumeric codes · Furnace · 2010s
Type of code: Fault; Urgency: Needs attention soon
First safe check: Find the round pressure switch, usually clipped near the burner compartment or on the blower deck, and follow the clear plastic tube attached to it.

Checked 2026-09-26

What E1 means on this model

This is the low stage pressure switch reporting venting before ignition. The switch should be closed until the draft is proven and then open as the inducer moves air. Reading venting at the moment the control expects the flue to still be full means the switch or its tube is not behaving, and the burner will not be called for.

Symptoms you will notice

Furnace will not fire
Short draft blower noise, then a click, then nothing
No heat
Code returns immediately after a reset

Common causes

The code tells you what the control detected, not which part failed. These are the causes we see most often, roughly in order of likelihood:

Pressure switch stuck in the closed position
Cracked, pinched or disconnected plastic pressure tube
Water or condensation sitting in a low point of that tube
Inducer motor spinning too slowly to move enough air to trip the switch
Loose connector in the pressure switch circuit

What you can safely check

These are homeowner-level checks. None of them need you to open a live electrical compartment or work on gas.

Find the round pressure switch, usually clipped near the burner compartment or on the blower deck, and follow the clear plastic tube attached to it.
Inspect the whole length of tube for a crack, a kink, or water pooled in a dip.
Watch the squirrel cage on the draft inducer while the furnace calls for heat. It should spin up quickly and evenly.

Do not do these

×Do not tape over, plug, or block the pressure switch. It is the part that stops the furnace releasing gas into a flue that is not moving air.
×Do not run the furnace with the burner compartment open.

When to call a technician

Book a technician, do not keep resetting it

This fault will not clear on its own. Every power cycle gives the control one more failed attempt, and repeated attempts are what turn a cheap part replacement into a seized or contaminated system.

This is a fuel-burning appliance, so treat anything involving a burner, gas valve or flue as technician work. If you smell gas at any point, leave the property and call the gas utility from outside rather than continuing to diagnose.
If the appliance has stopped mid-cycle, is making a noise you have not heard before, or smells burnt, stop reading here and call. Those are symptoms of something the fault code does not describe well enough.

Replacing a cracked tube and cleaning a blocked condensate drain are fine homeowner work. Replacing the switch is at the edge of it.

What it costs to fix

Parts

Pressure switch $30 to $90. Pressure tube $5 to $20. Inducer capacitor $15 to $40.

Labor

Usually under an hour. Straightforward once the burner compartment is open.

DIY or technician